Sunday, October 28, 2012

Jo Sonjas Tutorial Baby is finished!

I finished her up this morning. She has her nails done, glossing and I touched up any shiny spots in the creases that I had missed with the FolkArt. I am going to let her sit and cure a while and then will wrap her in tissue and send her back to her Mommy to be finished out by her.  The sunlight was hitting her in a couple places in the pics. I took them with a flash though cause this room is darker.

Saturday, October 27, 2012

About using FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium as a final sealer

A word of Caution:
I had read online on one of the sites (can't remember which) that you have to be careful when applying this product over the top of your paint as a final sealer as it can lift the paint back off.  I think it is because it has some tooth in it and it bonds so strongly to the paint or surface. 

I did not have any issues at all applying this product over Genesis.  However, I did find that when I tried applying it over the leg of the air dry painted baby (Jo Sonjas) that it lifted a small spot of paint off.  The piece I was applying it to had been last painted on 24 hours ago.   Perhaps had I waited a full 2 weeks for the paint to cure I wouldn't have had any issue but I didn't wait it out because I have to work when I can.   I stopped and easily repaired the spot.  I then decided that is all the more reason to seal with a matte air dry sealer first, let that dry and then use this product to knock off the shine.  You get the UV protection from the air dry sealer this way and I was  thinking the air dry sealer will keep the paint from lifting off when this is applied.  I applied a layer of Jo Sonjas Matte Varnish to my baby with a wedge.  The Matte Varnish did not lift of any paint at all.  My pieces were left to dry for 2 hours and then I applied the FolkArt over the matte varnish.  That seemed to work.  I would recommend letting this all cure at least a week before selling the baby.  The pieces are matte finished now.  Maybe not quite as matte finished looking as vinyl coated with Genesis Matte Varnish but definitely not all shiny. 


Thursday, October 25, 2012

Very Brief Jo Sonjas Mixing Tutorial

I was planning to make a new Jo Sonjas painting tutorial for those who keep emailing me asking about the paints but I recently suffered a herniated disc in my low back and just have not been able to do all the things I would like to do as I have to limit my time sitting.   However I have slowly been working on this test baby and took some photos to share with you.

Click on photos to see larger images.

Products you will need:

-Jo Sonjas paints
-Liquitex ULTRA Matte Gel (not the regular matte gel)
-Jo Sonjas Flow Medium (or any other brand acrylic paint thinning product you like.  Not the retarder, the thinner is what you want. Craft grade works fine as I have used the Delta brand before.)
-FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium  (This is OPTIONAL.  I was testing this product at the time and used it in the mixes on this baby but I have not always used it.)
-Distilled Water
-Paint Brushes
-Dash, Pinch Smidgen spoons
-Cosmetic Wedges
-Glass or ceramic pallets or little bowls to mix paints in.  I like the little cheap tea light candle holders you can get at Walmart for 50 cents.

Prepping:  If your vinyl is super slick or soft like some of the German Vinyls you may wish to first apply a layer of the FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium.  You want to squirt a little amount onto a wedge and pounce it onto your vinyl until it is looking matte.  You want to pounce out a very thin layer as smoothly as you can.  Keep in mind any lines/creases you leave behind will show up with flesh colored paint over it so pounce it out thin. Working in small sections apply this product until your whole piece is covered.  Leave to dry the recommended time on the bottle before painting. 

All I am going to cover here is how to mix for flesh tones, mottling/blushing and creases.  '

Mottling/blushing type mix

I often like to start with a layer of mottling before I apply a flesh layer.
To mix this pick your color or colors of choice and you will want about a pea sized amount of color/color mix.  I chose plum pink here.  To that add about the same amount of Liquitex ULTRA Matte Gel.  I just dipped my brush in the gel and then smeared what I pulled out onto the bowl. 

To that mix add a DASH of JS Flow Medium or Acrylic paint thinner of your choice.

Lastly to the mix add 1 tsp of distilled water.

 You will have a very concentrated color mix.  You should have already plucked a sponge to make your mottling pattern or you may be using a berry maker or whatever you choose.  Soak your mottling sponge and an extra plain sponge in some distilled water and squeeze them out so they are damp.  Take a paint brush and paint some color mix on the mottling sponge.  Blot it on a paper or paper towel. etc.

Apply the color all over the vinyl pieces one at a time.  You want the color to go on evenly.  A little wet application is okay as the water will evaporate but you don't want it to look drippy or too wet because you want the pattern to look smooth when dry and evenly dispersed.  Use your plain damp sponge to pounce down any spots of color that look too heavily concentrated or too wet.  Keep in mind the color will be slightly subdued as it cures and also you are going to apply flesh layers over this.  Here is the head after I applied the mottling.  It has not fully aerated in this photo.

Flesh tones
Choose the flesh tone you wish to use.  For this baby I did not prep the vinyl with anything so at this point I will add some of the FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium to my flesh mix so that I can add some tooth to my vinyl for the layers of paint that will follow.  I read online that you can mix it in with your paint and one website suggested 3 drops mixed in the paint so that is what I did and it seems to work well.  This product is OPTIONAL.  Some people do not like to use this product and so you can leave it off if you don't want to use it.  I personally like using it.  I would also say at this point since it mixes in fine that if you are having problems applying thin enough as a prep sealer layer first that you can probably thin it down with a little flow medium to apply it.  Distilled water might work as well to thin it.  Since there is water in this mix below I am assuming so but you will have to try it and see.

So here is my flesh mix.  I took a pea sized amount of skin tone base, an equal amount of Liquitex ULTRA Matte Gel, 1 DASH of JS Flow Medium and 3 drops of  FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium.  That is what all you see in the bowl here.  To that I will add my 1 tsp of distilled water. 

For the flesh mix, I painted this onto a DRY wedge and then pounced it onto the baby.  As I worked I decided I wanted a little more concentration to my flesh tone so I went back and added about a half pea sized amount more of skin tone base to my flesh mix.  This mix is just a guideline.  You will have to play with you flesh mixes to get the colors and pigment concentrations you want.  Fawn is another color I like to use for flesh mixes either alone or together with skin tone base. 


What I am about to do here is a guideline for how to mix, not necessarily what color(s) to mix.

I have pulled out a DASH of my mottling mix and dropped it into a well on another pallet.  To that I added 3 drops of  FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium, a little burgundy and eventually a little earth brown.  Remember that initially my mottling mix did not have any FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium in it.  The reason for adding it to the creases mix is I wanted to make sure my creases mix was not too watery and had a little something in it to help it grab to the creases. 

The color I ended up with was a warm blush type color.  I tried it and it worked okay for this baby but I usually go for a more purplish tone than this.  That is why I said find your own colors in all this.  When you dip your liner brush in it, blot it on a paper or paper towel a little before painting the crease.  If you get too much in the crease, let it aerate a minute and then lightly brush over it with a dry mop brush to lighten it up a bit. 

For the lip and nails color I mixed up a darker more mauve version of my mottling color using the same method/ratios as the creases mix starting with my mottling color.

For my veins I just mixed some blue and green with a little JS flow medium (no water) and painted them on then pounced them with a plain dampened sponge til they looked like they are under the skin.

For my final blushing I took my mottling color and just added a tooth pick amount of a couple other colors to make a 3rd mauve color in between the mottling and lip color that I pounced on the usual places you do final blushing. 

Lastly I applied an overall final skin tone layer to pull everything together.

It has been a while since I used Jo Sonjas on a reborn so I have to get back into the swing of it but the finished baby will be what I called painted Simply Baby style  She is a bit pink right now but I know her color will settle some as she cures. I can touch her up or tone her down later if need be.

When paint finish has cured a couple days seal with air dry matte sealer such as Jo Sonjas or your favorite brand.  This protects your pigments from UV light and keeps the paint from lifting back off when you apply the FolkArt for a matte finish.  After that has cured (a minimum of 2 hours and 24 hours is even better) you then pounce on a final layer of FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium.  Lightly pounce all over until finish looks matte.  Let that cure as well. 
Here she is before sealing.  I did go back the next day and pounce on 2 cream yellow layers to tone the pink a bit and blend things.  Then the next day I sealed her. 


Monday, October 22, 2012

I give the FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium sealer a thumbs up!

Here we are several days later.  My test head that was painted with Genesis paints and sealed with the  FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium sealer still looks great.  No shine and no stickiness!  I painted some Berenguer limbs to go with this head and used the sealer on them as well to cut the shine.  Lovely matte finish!  I think the baby turned out quite nicely!

I do believe that this product is a great thing for both Air dry paint users and Genesis paint users.  

Thursday, October 18, 2012

FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium testing Day 2 Continued

It is now evening and I am home from work.  Here is the photos I took of my test limb after the Jo Sonjas Matte Varnish has dried.  One is a little blurry but you can still see it is a shiny limb.

The next thing I did was to pounce the FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium all over the test limb, on top of the dried Jo Sonjas Matte Varnish.  I pounced it until it doesn't look so wet and begins to look more matte.  The product was applied to the entire limb this way.  As you can see from the photos below, the limb is very matte with no shine now.  I will let the limb sit and watch it to see if there are any changes to the matte finish or if the product goes sticky over time.  So far so good!


FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium testing Day 2

The head I sealed with the FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium last night around 9:00 pm is not sticky at all today.  It is now 11:00 am.  I will continue to monitor how it does.

I also had another idea I am going to test.  Since it is best to have something with UV protection on the air dry paints, I have sealed my Jo Sonjas painted test limb this morning with Jo Sonjas Matte Varnish.  I am letting it sit to dry today as I am heading to physical therapy and work.  When I get home this evening, I am going to pounce this product on top of the matte varnish to see
#1 if it will take away the sheen of the matte varnish and
#2 if it does or does not go sticky on top of the matte varnish. 

If all goes well we will have finally found a way to air dry seal the air dry paints so that they are lightfast AND  totally matte.

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Testing FolkArt Glass and Tile Medium for Shine

My Folkart Glass and Tile Medium came today.   This is an air dry prep medium that someone suggested to me as being a product that can be used under air dry paints to prep the vinyl so the paint will stick better.  It can also be used as a final finish according to the directions to make the paint more durable.  It doesn't say anything about it making pigments more light fast however. 

Someone had asked me if I thought it could be used on a Genesis painted doll that has gone shiny so it could be matte without being taken apart to bake on Genesis Matte Varnish.  So I am testing it to see.

I tried to get a before photo of my test head to show that had some shiny spots but they didn't show up in any of my pics so all I have here is the after.  This head was painted with Genesis paints.  It has split in the neck where I overheated it.  The split has been repaired now.  I put the FolkArt all over him and pounced it out.  At first it looked shiny when wet but the more I pounced the more it dried to a matte finish.  This head is totally matte now except for the glossed areas like the mouth and such.  The shine on top of the head is the light of the lamp next to him bouncing off.   This product doesn't have a texture like Genesis matte varnish but it does have a different feel now as the head doesn't feel slick like bare vinyl does.  I will let it sit a week or so and if it doesn't go sticky I will match him up with some 1/4 Berenguer limbs and make a booboo baby.

Monday, October 8, 2012

Possible product for priming vinyl before painting with Air Dry Paints

I try to bring you all the latest updates in painting and overall reborn techniques as I get them, especially those related to air dry paints.  Although I have settled on Genesis Heat Set Paints as my preferred method of reborn painting, I realize that there are many out there who for health reasons or otherwise must use an air dry system for painting.  For this reason, I am always looking for a better method or products to use in conjunction with Jo Sonjas air dry paints or your paint of choice. 

Pam in PA reports that she has tried a new product for priming vinyl that looks very promising because it is totally matte.  She posted about it on my reborn chat board, The Reborn Connection.  Here is what she said:

"I have been experimenting with LDC paint and I like them very much. I know Debbie suggests Genesis Matte varnish as a prep before painting. I have been trying to find something that is air dry. I have read other threads about not finding anything that is truly matte with no sheen.

I did a lot of internet searching and found this.

I saw this product listed on a gaming site. They listed it as a prep/ sealer that is truly matte. I went out and bought it today at AC Moore.
I just tried it on a test head that I had previously painted with Luminaire paints. I never cared for the paints because of the sheen. Here is a picture of the head. The right side has the medium on it the left side does not. I think this stuff is fantastic. Dries quickly and not tacky at all. It is getting late and I will play with it more tomorrow. I am very excited about this and thought I would share." 
Posted Image
 "The directions tell you to put it on the surface you want to paint. Let it dry. Paint the item. Then put it on top. So it is a prep and a sealer I guess. I don't know if it would prevent fading that happens with some acrylics. Keep in mind that this product was designed for glass and tile to help with paint adhesion. I can't imagine trying to get paint to stick to glass. LOL

What I like about this product is that is it not thick at all. You barely notice it is there. You don't feel it and it is really matte. I wonder if you could use it with genesis as a sealer to fix shine for those that don't like the feeling of genesis matte?

Angie it doesn't peel. If I gave you the head to examine you would probably think something is on the shiny side because it is slick. The medium side feels normal. Bending doesn't effect it.

I think if I use it as a prep I would put a little paint with it to give it a little color. It blends so well and clear I don't know if you could see where you already painted and may miss some spots."

Thank you Pam for this information!  I have ordered a bottle of this product to try myself and will let everyone know how it does for me.  I also did a little research and found this information online about the product.   Though it is talking about using it on glass, I think the same would apply to vinyl.
"Technique 1 - Folk Art Glass and Tile Medium
There are two methods you can use with the Folk Art Glass and Tile Medium. You can use the medium as a base coat or mix it with your paint.

Using the Glass and Tile Medium as a Base Coat
Following the directions on the bottle, begin by painting the glass and tile medium on the area you want to paint your design. Allow this base coat to dry. When dry, the glass and tile medium will give the glass a frosted appearance. Paint your design over the base coat. You can seal the design using the glass and tile medium (as directed on the bottle), a water-based varnish, or a spray lacquer. The spray lacquer, when properly applied, should make the frosted appearance disappear. It has been my experience that using the glass and tile medium as a sealer will sometimes cause the painted design to lift off of the glass.

Mix the Glass and Tile Medium with Your Paint
The other method when using the glass and tile medium is to mix it with your paint. You should add approximately 3 drops of glass and tile medium to a quarter sized (1 inch diameter) puddle of paint. If you use too much glass and tile medium, the paint will be too thin. Paint your design using the paint/glass and tile medium mixture, and then seal with either a water-based varnish or spray lacquer."